This time of the year is often fraught. Spring shows her fresh face when a ferociously cold wind arrives blasting juvenile shoots and fragile blooms. A predicted frosty morning will certainly wreck havoc with her tender buds. At this time of year I rely on the jewell-like variety of citrus fruit available. Beautiful blood oranges, ruby red grapefruit, the sweetest manderins and tangerines loosely bundled in oily scented peel. I surrender all my principles to keeping food miles low and indulge. Just what the doctor ordered.